describe what constitutes high quality Brown's gas , You haven't read the site very well. nor can he even describe what low quality Brown's gas is. Once again, you haven't read the site very well. Yes, Mikey, I have read the site very well. Since I seem to be missing exactly where he describes the difference between high quality Brown's gas and low quality Brown's gas, perhaps you, in your infinite wisdom, could make a fool of me and quote exactly what he says in this regard.  Be sure to include the text where he describes exactly how the two behave differently. I will take your expected response of Look for yourself as an admission that you're lying yet again. Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy.

too hard lest you produce a abdominal hernia and have to undergo surgery. He writes this kind of stuff and then has the cojones to level accusations of dumminess at others. What a incredible joke he is. FK Dielectric bonding is the bonding which prevents the flow of electricity in a dielectric, giving it dielectric strength. When it breaks down, the dielectric strength is weakened and eklecticity flows through a substance that otherwise would block such flow. Unless you know otherwise, gramps, there is some type of bonding which holds and maintains the dielectric strength in water. It could simply be the molecular bonds in water, but if that is so, why? In terms of water's dielectric strength, whatever maintains it can be considered a bond, and that's a fact. Michael Hannon <snip

No big deal, except for the fact that the cost of doing it your way, sloppy as it is, is about 5x what it costs to do it with Aethergas, and I wouldn't hang around in an unventilated room where you did it with oxy/acetylene either. Wonderful.  Why not simply sell that machine of yours to shops which need to cut holes into stainless steel and offer them a way to save money? Surely the forces working against you haven't gotten to every shop in the world? Oh well.....

[big ol snip] But I'd still like you to produce a sheet of stainless 3/16 thick that you punched a hole through the center of with your precious 2H2/O2 torch, and the other things I've already requested , the claims about which you have consistently avoided producing any substantiation for. Shoot, you don't even need 2H2/O2 to do this.  Any standard oxyacetylene torch can do the job.  You can even cut stainless with oxyacetylene, its just not very fast and not very pretty.  How easy or difficult also depends greatly on the quality of the stainless; I have cut some kinds of stainless almost as easily as soft iron, and have encountered other kinds that simply have to be melted before you can blow the excess away with the oxygen stream. So what's the big deal? -dennis towne Have you ever punched a round hole in the middle of 3/16 thick 316 stainless in less than a minute with a 6 long oxy/acetylene flame, or are you talking about edge-cutting? I can hold onto a 10 square piece of that material in my bare hand and punch a hole in it with , at 50 psi - no oxygen stream to blow the slag away, either, although it will go even quicker if you do use oxygen to blow out the slag. And that isn't with a cutting tip either. According to a union welder friend, who has had oxy/acetylene torches in his hand for over 25 years, you cannot cut stainless - you get it hot enough so that it will eventually melt, then blow out what's melted with an oxygen blast, but it takes so long that it isn't worth the time, and the cut is very sloppy. This isn't what happens with Aethergas. Big deal? No big deal, except for the fact that the cost of doing it your way, sloppy as it is, is about 5x what it costs to do it with Aethergas, and I wouldn't hang around in an unventilated room where you did it with oxy/acetylene either. OH